Baghdad was the recipient of Saddam’s largess (and the PLO too), but the south wasn’t really on the nice list and has been a cross roads for conflict for a long time, which has left a mark on the landscape.
Finally, conclusive evidence of the presence of whole trays of yellow cake in Iraq, and at extremely low prices, well within the reach of any organization.
Saddam managed to build a fairly pretty complex here, with lots of artificial lakes (originally filled with potable water). Along one of those lakes is the Gates of Babylon restaurant. The food is excellent and the adjoining room is a hookah bar. The Nex5 does a pretty good job at night.
The palace is pretty inside, though the construction is legendarily shoddy and parts of the palace are starting to disintegrate as salt in the sand mixed in with the concrete disintegrates it. The main hall is quite dramatic with a three story chandelier.
Tragically more than a decade after I took this picture on my way in for a delicious hamburger after a long flight, It’s Tops was killed, having survived 85 years in business, by Covid, like Gaylord’s Caffe Espresso. This is a huge loss for San Francisco. It was one of my favorite places. For more than a decade my schedule would take me out SFO for part of the week and on my return, driving back to Oakland, I always looked forward to stopping at It’s Tops for a welcome home Hamburger. Over the years I got to know the staff and some of the regulars, who were frequently colorful and diverse and entertaining.
It’s tops was family owned from the founding in 1935, It’s tops weathered wars and social upheaval and changing demographics and was an anchor of temporal stability. Walking in was like going back in time in decor and service and quality of food. Seeing the neon sign lit in the dark after a long trip would brighten a tired heart.
